We’re loving the beef cheek tacos from this Overland Park taqueria

Perhaps I’ve had cachete tacos in Kansas City before and not realized it. They go by a couple other names—cabeza, barbacoa.

In Spanish, cachete means “beef cheeks” (one part of the cabeza) and it is typically steamed, barbacoa-style.

But Taqueria La Nueva (12561 Antioch Road, Overland Park) is one of the few places that gets specific on its menu, and that was reason enough to beat the lunch rush at this bustling new south Overland Park taqueria.

I like offal, and I’m particular about it (don’t give me chopped and fried lengua, I want that braised and shredded). But as far as left-of-mainstream tacos go, cachete is big, beefy and easy to love, especially when you’re getting it for under three dollars a taco.

Here, beef cheeks—one of the toughest parts of the cow thanks to all that chewing—are braised for several hours until the meat is as delicate as a flower petal, then piled into double corn tortillas and loaded with cilantro and onions. —Natalie Torres Gallagher