Some things never come completely into or fall fully out of style—boat shoes, Burberry scarves and deviled eggs among them. Maybe it’s a mood, or perhaps it’s just a coincidence, but two notable new restaurant openings from the tail end of last year brought us memorable deviled eggs.
At Blu Hwy (5070 Main St., KCMO) on the South Plaza, those eggs are a statement of purpose for the entire endeavor, which is modeled on a grand American road trip. Hard-boiled eggs from a local farm take their own little journey thanks to golden raisins, fermented hot sauce, pine nuts and folded slices of country ham.
At Night Hawk (1228 Baltimore Ave., KCMO), a subterranean bar below Hotel Kansas City downtown, the deviled eggs are cold smoked and pickled before being filled with a mayo-spiked yolk spiced with dijon and Old Bay seasoning. The smoke, the tang and the peppery Old Bay create a perfect storm.
There was a time in this country where a man might finish his shift at the widget factory and then supper on pickled eggs from the comfort of a bar stool. Maybe that trend is due for a comeback.